When Hedi Slimane took over the rains at Yves Saint Laurent from Stefano Pilati, he was not going to be subtle about it. Not only did he change the name of the brand, but the direction taken proved the YSL we once knew was evolving rapidly. A brave move? Definitely. The right one? Well, it may be too early to speculate. But this is where we are so far:
His first collection (Spring 2013) for the now-known ‘Saint Laurent’ was a 70’s inspired affair, filled with Marianne Faithfull look-a-likes, immaculately dressed in pussy bow chiffon blouses, tuxedo jackets and tailored pants. There was definitely a rock and roll vibe throughout the collection, and I feel confident many women would feel great wearing his pieces (including me, at the expense of my bank account).
I have to say, the collection that followed (Autumn 2014) for me was the anti climax of the season. Grunge was the evident theme of the collection, and to me it resembled more Courtney Love than Kate Moss. It screamed LA from a mile away, but the clothing resembled something you could buy at the op shop, or Topshop if you were willing to spend the extra bucks. I felt like Slimane was losing touch.
However, this season, Silmane proved himself yet again with highly covetable pieces for fall, including patent leather knee high boots, paired with sequinned coats and mini dresses. The occasional cape was on debut, and tuxedo jackets plus an array of thigh length coats in all different textiles and finishings – tweed, fur, wool and herringbone to name a few… The next trip for me will be to the op shop, and I will be destined to find the perfect thigh length coat to pair with black stockings and knee high boots.